Here they are:

#2  Numanthia-Termes Toro Termes 2005, 96 pts, $27

#53 Cellar Mas Doix  Priorat Salanques 2006, 92 pts, $40

#71 Bodegas Bilbainas Tempranillo Rioja Viña Zaco, 90 pts, $15

#83 Bodegas Juan Gil Jumilla 2006, 90 pts, $16

#90 R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rioja White Viña Tondonia Reserva 1990, 93 pts, $49

#99 Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero 2006, 91 pts, $27

Some things I have been thinking about regarding Spanish Wines lately are authenticity, complexity, and value.  I just attended some Burgundy tastings.  French Wines have become SO expensive.  It seems they have all doubled in price from 7 years ago or so.  Good Spanish Wines have increased in cost due to USD-Euro exchange rates and the increased demand for Spanish Wines; however, Spanish Wines are still a HUGE value versus so many other “old world” wines.  You already know that though.

What stands out?  Ribera del Duero – delicious reds, no rush to drink, unlike some tight French Wines, drink now or hold.  Rioja – such a classic, so suave, never goes out of style.  Again, soft and approachable, yet age-worthy.  Penedes and N. Spain Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  Why not?  Northern Spain is so close to the homeland of these varietals. 

Cava – there are other more compelling offerings, but it is extremely hard to beat Spain on the front of quality sparkling wine.  Long Live Cava!  See our Mont Marcal Reserva recommendation.  Segura Viudas is another very inexpensive but correct and compelling recommendation. 

Anyway, more to come.  Your comments are welcome!

Summer is here, and people are drinking white wine. I seem to drink white in any season, but that may be uncommon. Most people think of Red Spanish Wines, although various regions in Spain produce phenominal white wines. I often think of Spanish white wines as perfect for summer, because the cuisine of Spain is similar to what we tend to cook or think of in Summer: grilled meats, fish, shelfish; salads, marinated vegetables; breads; omellettes, etc. What are some Spanish white wines and/or regions?

It is really a toss up on a couple of fronts. Cava is the white wine of Spain in many respects; however it is sparkling, and therefore in its own realm. Barring Cava, there are 2 big stand-outs with other equals weighing in.

1) Albarino from Rias Baixas. Wow, I ousted Verdejo from Rueda for this, an unusual event. Albarino makes me think of Summer, so call it timing. Albarino from the cool “Green Spain” of the NW of Spain is lemony, crisp, unoaked, simply delicious. Lovely on its own and perfect with Seafood! I recall my favorite Rioja producer lauding the virtues of a certain Albarino; the two of us bond very well. Calamari and Albarino, and a salad? Man, that is summer living. Try it on your deck with your friends and any summer fare.

2) Verdejo from Rueda – crisper, a bit Sauvignon Blanc like, Verdejo is my favorite, though I really love Albarino too. Verdejo is also unoaked (mostly, some do barrel age/ferment, I prefer unoaked). Very crisp, dry, aromatic with a slightly bitter finish, exotic fruit and peaches, absolutely lovely in its crispness. Albarino is richer and more lemony. I like the beefier Verdejos, not just the lightly floral and crisp ones.

Now, what to eat with this wine. Think shelfish, pate (as my producer suggests), the right pasta, salads, or cold and crisp on its own. Seafood is an obvious one, as mentioned, similar to unoaked Sauvignon Blanc. How many people even know Albarino or Verdejo?

Fact: Verdejo is its own Denominacion de Origen, when it is 85% or more of the wine. My favorites “Verdejos” are 100%, with more pronounced character. In this case, the grape variety IS the D.O. Worth seeking out.

3) Xakolina Bizkaiko – crisp, slightly effervescent, lean wine, almost like crisp chablis with a few bubbles. Xakoli is searing in acidity, floral, fruity, unoaked with mineral, and it seems to sing. It is compelling and usually persistent. There are few Xakoli producers, and it is definitely worth any Spanish Wine aficionado’s time. Again, summer fare, grilled fish, seafood, salads, hmmm, Northern Spanish cheeses.

4) Viura from Rioja – OK, I pick the big boy to represent a lot of other very worthy regions for the Viura grape. Muga produces a nice Viura you can find easily. It might be slightly oaked, a lot of viura is not. One of the grapes to make Cava, along with Xarel.lo and Parellada, it is often compared next with Chardonnay, a simpler one. Green apples, mineral, a bit of body, not highly complex, but a worthy Spanish White wine. Some barrell-fermented/aged examples are quite compelling as well.
Lastly we will include another category:

5) Rose! OK, not White, but in the same vein. There are great Roses from Rioja (viura-like), though one of my personal favorites region-wise is Cigales – seems to produce Roses of such snap and crisp personality that they are on their own track. Excellent examples from all over, including Somontano, Penedes, Conca de Barbera (unique Trepat varietal), Rioja, etc. Those are the ones that have stood out to me, and which you can fairly easily find with some searching.

Dig into White Spanish Wines this Summer! Read more »

A lesser known Spanish wine:

South-Eastern Spain, south of Valencia, is a region of various D.O.s which is home of Monastrell grape, aka Mourvedre in French. Arrid and hot, the grapes are often grown in bunches and are starting to be planted “pie franco” or on natural root-stock instead of grafted onto American root-stock.

I get excited about these wines, often monovarietal, either unoaked or barrel-aged, because they are of a different flavor profile from the ubiquitous Tempranillo and Grenache Spanish wines that cover most of the country.

I have had dusty, musty monastrells, full of barnyard. I have also had monastrells young, rich, deep fruity with clean plum notes.
If you haven’t tried this from Spain, it is one wine, where the flavor profile is really not remiscent of others from other countries. Try it!

Rioja! – Rioja seemed to go through a phase where it was ALL Spain had to offer; then it was forgotten, as Ribera del Duero, Priorat, Navarra, etc.
came on the scene. Our Classico is back, Rioja is it! Rioja is all-Spain, you must not miss this suave wine region over-delivering in value.

Rueda – My personal favorite, so I am going to plug this. Like Sauvignon Blanc and dry Riesling? Give Rueda a try. Dry, almost bitter end,
wonder dry whites of pure

Spain has had a unique position in the wine world, mainly being a “sleeping giant”, one who has had a vast and rich fabric of grape varieties, cultivated land, history, and unique style, all the while embracing modernity at an impressive clip. Spain is the cross-roads of many wine debates over what is “new world” or “modern” and what is “old world” and “classical”. Spain seems to meld these and make it more difficult for our modern wine press and wine critiques to put these terms into relevant use; however they do so deftly.

What we find in Spanish Wine might best be described in the words of masterful wine entrepreneur Sr. Eguren of Spain as “nuevos classicos”, or “new classics” or even “new classicists” in wine.

The wines may be cleaner and more fruit-forward than older, traditional styles; yet they are almost most certainly better made wines of value and ageing potential, while nodding to the past.

This dichotomy of past and present, or traditional and modern, puts Spain at a unique crossroads with a broad and very interesting offering, from whites to reds, roses, and sparkling or cavas, lest we forget the deep and unique category of “generosos” or Sherry wines from Spain.

It is truly an exciting time for the wine world and for Spain, as this penisula makes an indellible mark on this time in wine making with its unique old-world-meets-modernity style.

I embrace it, and I envite you to as well.

Cheers!
Gavin

#34 Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero Crianza 2005, 93pts, $34
#52 Bodegas LAN Rioja Reserva 2004, 90pts, $17
#65 Bodegas Muga Rioja Reserva 2004, 91pts, $30
#71 Bodegas Sierra Cantabria Rioja Crianza 2004, 90pts, $20

Also worth noting:
Portugal
#3 Quinta do Crasto Douro Reserva Old Vines 2005, 95, $40

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